Kochi: far from the maddening crowd

Slow travel and avoiding crowded cities is becoming a higher priority for those traveling to Japan, and with the sheer diversity of the long island nation, it can be tough to choose your next destination. But what if you could experience 3 majorly different landscapes all in the same prefecture?

Of the four prefectures on the island of Shikoku, best known for its long 88 temple pilgrimage, Kochi may well take the cake for sheer diversity (and tranquility) in one region. You could take a morning swim in Kuroshio, followed by rafting/kayaking along the Shimanto River, before heading up to the karsts for an evening above the clouds in the Tengu Plateau.

The Shimanto is the last pure free-flowing river in Japan © Japan National Tourism Organization

Purify your soul in the Shimanto River Valley

Perhaps one of Kochi’s greatest natural claims to fame, the Shimanto is the last pure free-flowing river in Japan. Thanks to the clean water and valley views it is a popular spot with local kayakers and rafters, as well as cyclists who zip the 196km length, while occasionally crossing the cute, stout chinkabashi (submersible bridges). While many Kochiites take to the riverside camping spots on warm weekends, but there are also plenty of ryokan inns offering local foods, such as family-run Anjuan, which is also vegetarian and vegan-friendly. If you love the great outdoors but want a few extra creature comforts, glamping under the stars at Yamamizuki might be just the ticket.

If you prefer to avoid driving, this is a great spot for an overnight trip, as it takes under 2 hours by regular express trains from the capital of Kochi City to reach Nakamura, conveniently located toward the estuary of the river.

From April to mid-October the coast is home to pods of Bryde’s whales © Japan National Tourism Organization

Beach days and whales in Kuroshio

One of the gems of this coastal area of Kochi is４km-long Irino Beach, so pretty that it is considered a “natural art gallery.” Besides swimmers and sun worshippers, around sunset this beach attracts photographers, as the tide transforms the beach into a mirror of the sky. If you are lucky you may catch the yearly t-shirt art exhibition when hundreds of artistic creations flutter in the sea breeze.

From April to mid-October the coast is home to pods of Bryde’s whales, and there are regular boat tours to watch the majestic creatures play and raise their young. For those who prefer to remain on firm ground, you can try your hand at salt-making with the friendly owner of Saltybe. Book a farmstay at nearby Kajika, where you can join in picking seasonal vegetables, foraging, gathering eggs, and then enjoy lovingly prepared “farm cuisine.”

The Shikoku Karsts are right on the border with Ehime prefecture © Japan National Tourism Organization

Head above the clouds to Yusuhara and the Shikoku Karsts

Kochi has highest percent of forested land in Japan (84%) and up in the mountains the peace and soothing green is most apparent. People make the journey to Yusuhara to check out 6 architectural marvels by renowned architect Kengo Kuma, including one where you can stay the night, Yusuhara Machi no Eki. The “library above the clouds” is particularly beautiful, and nearby Coffee Flag serves a great cup of joe. Outdoorsy folks can follow in the footsteps of local hero Sakamoto Ryoma, trekking the Dappan no Michi, the route the former samurai used to escape his native domain.

To really get on top of the world, continue up to the nearby Shikoku Karsts, right on the border with Ehime prefecture. Stay at a lodge high on the Tengu Plateau and watch the sunset and clear starry skies from over 1000 meters up… while sipping brews from one of Kochi’s 18 sake breweries.

While the sea-to-mountains route above shows plenty different sides of Kochi, there is actually even more to discover:

Many nature lovers make their way to the Nakatsu Gorge © Japan National Tourism Organization

Tea and washi along the Niyodo River

Kochi has a bit of a monopoly on surreally pretty rivers, as the Niyodo River is said to have best quality water in Japan, so clear and blue that the color has been called “Niyodo blue.”

Kayaking, canyoning and rafting are popular pursuits, and many nature lovers make their way to the Nakatsu Gorge to see the waterfalls and walk along mossy trails crisscrossed with little red bridges. Nearby are the Choja Tanada terraced rice fields, where over 100 paddies are arranged in steps up the sides of the valley, a tradition preserved for over 400 years. Ikegawa, the top tea-producing area in Kochi, is also a short drive away. Grab a table at Ikegawachaen Kobo Café, run by tea farmers, and try the lushly green tea-flavored Chabatake parfait while overlooking the rounded tea bushes and Niyodo River below.

Spend the night at QRAUD, an interesting combination of hotel and workshops overlooking the river, where you can try your hand at washi paper making.

The splendid gardens of Monet’s Garden Marmottan in nearby Kitagawa bring the artist’s paintings to life © Japan National Tourism Organization

Flowers and fruit in Umaji and Kitagawa

Step back in time in the tiny village of Umaji, nicknamed “yuzu village” for their abundant production of Kochi’s most famous citrus fruit. Time moves slowly here, and visitors will definitely get a taste for the Japan of yore. Stock up on fresh bread from the photogenic local bakery, then check out the bijou Forest Railway and remains of the Yuzu Road, which used to cart the bright yellow citrus to market. After exploring the yuzu orchards and playing in the cool river, slip into the hot springs at Umaji Onsen and finish the day with a glass of refreshing yuzu juice.

Kochi has deep connections to flora, and the splendid gardens of Monet’s Garden Marmottan in nearby Kitagawa bring the artist’s paintings to life, making this area well-worth a side trip from Kochi City, as the gardens are just a quick bus ride from Nahari Station.

The Ashizuri Underwater Observatory is a great spot to see the sea life and protected coastline © Japan National Tourism Organization

(Looking for something really unusual? The gloriously retro Ashizuri Underwater Observatory in Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park looks like the lair of an ocean-loving James Bond villain, and is a great spot to join a glass boat cruise to see the sea life and protected coastline.)