Imagine an EU capital that was not long ago named Lonely Planet’s No. 1 destination in Europe. A city of culture, of parks, cycling routes, a relaxed cafe culture, with arguably the best lifestyle in Europe.
Imagine a city that is a rising star on the tourism scene with an incredibly diverse offering – for families, foodies, culture junkies and nature lovers. Now surround that city with a giant circle of green, with a wealth of authentic, natural and unique experiences, with something for each and every visitor.
Like any decent Central European capital, Zagreb has preserved a lot of rich heritage over its long history. The architecture of buildings and landscape covers different styles, and special details, specific just for Zagreb, give the city its unique character. Museums, galleries, theaters and other cultural institutions form a strong and active art scene, with a healthy dose of bohemian attitude found in numerous cafés, squares and streets.
Neither too big nor too small, safe and friendly, Zagreb can give more than enough material to the art-loving type of traveller on a short break.
World class museums such as Atelier Meštrović house plenty of attractions for art-loving travelers to Zagreb © J. Duval / Zagreb
It won't take long for you to discover that Zagrebians love taking a break and enjoying little things in life, especially if they involve sitting around a table. In the last few years, the restaurant scene in Zagreb has been more active and exciting than ever. It is varied and follows trends, but also sticks to local specifics and tradition. From modern bistros with an international flair and creative fine dining restaurants, to local eateries and diners that haven't changed in decades – when you want to eat out in Zagreb, you have a broad range of genres and options to choose from.
The oldest continuously operating restaurant in Zagreb opened in 1913. What has changed since then, and what remained the same? When they go out, Zagrebians still want to eat well, in good company, without rushing, preferably something familiar and homemade, but taken to a higher level. Old family-owned eateries with typical local food still exist, they are highly appreciated, but modern times and a new kind of audience have introduced many innovations. Moreover, the diversity of the dining scene also reflects the richness of different culinary influences that shaped the gastronomy of Zagreb.
The restaurant scene in Zagreb, like this one on Tkalčićeva Street, is more active and exciting than ever © J. Duval / Zagreb
A single glance is enough to see that Zagreb does not lack in greenery. In the innermost city centre, street life is interspersed by elegant parks and squares that were simply made for relaxation. Almost around the corner, we find the leafy Tuškanac Park Forest and the magnificent Maksimir Park. Nested between the mountain of Medvednica and the river Sava, Zagreb offers many possibilities to enjoy fresh air either passively or actively. In fact, you don’t even have to leave the city to participate in sports, go hiking, fish, golf or go cycling.
Even inside the confines of the city, green spaces like the lovely Maksimir Park offer plenty of outdoor options in Zagreb © J. Duval / Zagreb
Zagreb’s northern side is protected by the mountain which is, with good reason, referred to as “the lungs of the city”. The locals call it Sljeme, after its 3,300-foot peak. This is also their favorite place for outings, regardless of whether they’re looking for a sports adventure or for a spot for a family picnic.
The Sava River does not flow through the centre of the city, as is often the case in many other capitals, but this gives it the freedom to turn the embankments and the meadows along its edge into a sweeping promenade for joggers and walkers. The river’s tamed branches formed the lakes of Bundek and Jarun, now modern sport and recreational zones, and Savica Lakes in the south-east of the city are an unexpected piece of wilderness.
It would, however, be a mistake not to have a peek beyond the city limits at its lovely front yard. Locals call Zagreb County “the green ring around the city” because it surrounds Zagreb with natural beauty and numerous small places ideal for a quick escape from the city bustle.
In complete contrast to the rhythm of the capital, life in mostly rural surroundings is a lot slower and in far greater harmony with nature. Spending time in pristine nature with marvelous vistas and impressive flora and fauna replenishes travelers’ energy and broadens their horizons. Ranging from wooded mountains to river valleys and swamps, the landscape is streaked with cycling, trekking and hiking paths. Idyllic villages and holiday houses are there to show what the true meaning of countryside is.
Vineyards cover the hills around Zagreb, creating some of the most sought-after wines in the region © I. Puhelek Purek / Zagreb
Each micro-region within Zagreb’s ring prides itself on its uniqueness and local heritage. Tradition is alive in all aspects of life – from architecture, folklore and customs to old crafts and gastronomy. Village products and traditional recipes easily find their way to the restaurants and village households of the Zagreb surroundings, much to the joy of the audience craving authentic home-made flavors.
The excellent wines of small, hard-working family wineries around Zagreb, some of which belong to top Croatian wine offerings, enjoy wide renown. The multitude of monuments such as castles and manor houses, medieval forts, and even the archaeological sites of the antiquity are witness to this seemingly quiet region’s rich and eventful history.
If you are ready to have a different perspective on a European capital, Zagreb awaits.